Color,” said Jonathan Saunders backstage before his show, when asked what he’d been thinking about for Spring. “I wanted a bit of playfulness, something uplifting in these trying times.” He got things started with Sgt. Pepper jackets in the brightest turquoise and acid yellow, worn with sculpted-chiffon skirts that hit a few inches above the knee. Saunders chose lilac and baby pink for kimono jackets with stiff, somewhat awkward ruffles below the waist. And for the racerback tank bodices of youthful ballerina dresses, there were pastel jacquard weaves. Playful as the spirit was, you couldn’t exactly call these office clothes.